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Pattern Review: Butterick 6211
FULL DISCLOSURE: I made a peplum top (just shortened the skirt to 6.5 inches long) to look like a banana. No joke. A banana. Yes, I am okay, no I don’t have 6 other fruits lined up (okay I lied, I’ve already done peach and strawberry–blueberry, orange, and lemon are next). Pattern Description:Pullover, front wrap dress (fitted through bust) has bodice back extending to side-front, skirt cut on crosswise grain, no side seams on bodice or skirt, concealed elastic with hook & eye closure, front button and hook & eye closing, narrow hem, and self-belt. Topstitching. Note: No provisions provided for above waist adjustment. Circa 1953 Were the instructions easy…
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Pattern Review: Vogue 8972
Pattern Description:Lined dress has close-fitting bodice, seam detail, skirt variations, and back zipper. Topstitching. Separate pattern pieces are included for cup sizes A, B, C, D. A, B and C: semi-fitted skirt, back hemline slit and stitched hem. B and F: unlined sleeves. D, E and F: narrow hem. What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?I like that it comes with the different cup sizes (even though at a DD the C fits me best because of the curve). I hated a lot about this pattern and I think that mainly has to do with the fitting issues I had (explained below). Once I fit it, it…
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Pattern Review: Simplicity 8257
Soooo, this pattern *says* it has 3″ of wearing ease at the waist. I call bullsh*t. It does not. I found out too late when I went to do my first fitting that there is no ease. I double and tripled checked my measurements after trying it on, hoping it was my mistake, nope. I then measured the dress (before letting out seams) and there was no ease. Or at least when sewing a larger size. To say I am frustrated with having a cute but too small dress is an understatement. I *was* able to take out enough of the seams to make the dress comfortable to wear on…
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Demystifying the Single Welt Pocket: A Sewing Tutorial
The single welt pocket is a staple of business attire, commonly found on blazers, pants, and the occasional dress or skirt. Differing from a patch pocket, the single welt pocket is a pocket inside your garment, with a strip of fabric covering the pocket opening on the outside of the garment. While there are many ways to go about welt pockets, this tutorial covers the basic insertion of a single welt pocket with step-by-step instructions that are clarified with pictures. Once mastered, this easy technique, though somewhat time-consuming (it will take about an hour), will add a touch of elegance to your garments. Materials NeededFabrics: Garment fabric, pocket bag fabric…
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Pattern Review: McCalls 7718
Pattern Description:Close fitting lined dresses have princess seams and strap variations. A: Contrast overlay. C, D: Uneven hemline, wrong side of fabric will show. Includes separate pattern pieces for A/B, C, and D cups. Pattern Sizing:6-22 with A/B, C, D cup sizing Fabric Used:The pattern fabric is quilting cotton from Spoonflower (I’m recreating a design so I needed exact fabric) and the overlay is poly voile from Fabric Wholesale Direct. Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?Yes, but with the alterations I made, it does have a different feel. Were the instructions easy to follow?I read through the instructions, and…
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How to Sew a Smooth Scalloped Hem
I made a wrap skirt from a UFO dress from 2017 (pattern is lost and I didn’t have some of the pieces anymore). Wanting to not be plain Jane about it, I decided to do a scalloped edge on the overlapping piece to add even more visual interest to an already punchy skirt. So if you wanted to make something with a scallop edge, I got you covered. Here’s how you do so: Interface the edge of the fashion fabric you are going to scallop. (I also serged, this is not necessary though) 2. Draw your scallops! I took a candle and used that to trace to make my scallops…
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Pattern Review: Simplicity 9233
Pattern Description:Misses’ tops with sleeve variations & neck closure with ties or elastic loop & buttons. Pattern Sizing:Sz. 16-24 (I cut a straight 18 though with how much ease there is, I could easily have cut a 16 with no worries) Were the instructions easy to follow?The instructions were simple, though this is a fairly standard construction. Nothing is really out of the ordinary. The only thing that was weird was sewing your gather stitches and then NOT gathering for another 12 steps. Lol. What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?I LOVE the sleeves and the depth of the front slit. The lantern sleeves hide my hefty…
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Pattern Review: Vogue 9285
Pattern Description:Loose fitting top has back hook and eye closure and sleeve variations. Pattern Sizing:6-14 or 14-22; I cut an 18. Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?I made a number of alterations, but the bones of the shirt matched that of the picture. Were the instructions easy to follow?The instructions for the bishop sleeve were easy. Reading through the flared sleeve instructions were slightly confusing. The shirt comes together quickly though. What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?The sleeve cuffs are dreadful, they are supposed to be one piece (I made them two to insert the…
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Science of Sewing: Enlarging a Sleeve
Enlarging a sleeve is something I have to do all the time! I don’t have the pencil arms patterns seem to think are normal, so I am constantly redoing the sleeves. I helps that I love a gathered sleeve head, that makes it even easier to alter. I’m working on a project that requires a rather fluffy sleeve. Having found no such pattern, I decided to make my own using an existing pattern as a base to alter to match. Note that there is some loft in the sleeve head – I’m interpreting that to be gathering. The forearm of the sleeve is also much wider than the bicep, so…
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Altering an Unflattering Dress
When I originally bought this dress from Ann Taylor, I didn’t inspect the fit as well as I should have. Totally my fault, I fell in love with the stripes and the shirtdress style combined, so I was blinded to the issues that were quite apparent that made the dress rather unflattering. While not too terrible, there were some serious issues. Circled in blue is the waist seam actually level. To do this, I had to pin up the back on the dress form otherwise it would sag in the back (highly improper for my body type unless it there is an empire in the front). This lead to a…
