Pattern Review: McCalls 7718

Pattern Description:
Close fitting lined dresses have princess seams and strap variations. A: Contrast overlay. C, D: Uneven hemline, wrong side of fabric will show. Includes separate pattern pieces for A/B, C, and D cups.

Pattern Sizing:
6-22 with A/B, C, D cup sizing

Fabric Used:
The pattern fabric is quilting cotton from Spoonflower (I’m recreating a design so I needed exact fabric) and the overlay is poly voile from Fabric Wholesale Direct.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes, but with the alterations I made, it does have a different feel.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
I read through the instructions, and they are fine. There’s nothing truly confusing about them or odd in the steps of construction. I will note that I completely ignored them for the actual making of my dress as the construction is so simple and common that once you’ve made a few princess seamed bodices you’re good to go.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I love the skirt on this puppy! It’s so full but doesn’t have excessive fabric at the hips and waist like a circle skirt does. I also like the simplicity of the bodice, it’s only three pattern pieces.

I did however HATE the recommended cup size. I’m a DDD, so I cut for the C/D. Nope, the shape and my shape are just incompatible. I ended up shaving off the exaggerated curve down to look basically like the A cup. That fits lovely and is slimming without squishing. I got nothing – bodies are weird.

Front view: The straps are sew down completely with topstitching, the buttons are decorative.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I made a bunch of small changes!

  1. I raised the bodice neckline by 1.5″ and then exaggerated the sweetheart neckline.
  2. I doubled the width of the straps – they are no longer fold-over, but fashion and lining pieces now.
  3. I shortened the hem about 10 inches to give me mid-calf.
  4. I added a 2.75″ ruffle to the bottom hem.
  5. I omitted the boning – my fabric is interfaced and heavy enough and with the supportive straps, I don’t need the boning for support.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
This is a great pattern to use as a princess seam bodice sloper. Once you get the fit right, it will be super versatile and very useful for all sorts of dresses. I may sew this again in all sheers in full length to wear with a slip and be super ethereal. We shall see.

Once you get past fitting your tattas, the dress comes together very quickly and easily.

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