Pattern Review: Vogue 8972

Pattern Description:
Lined dress has close-fitting bodice, seam detail, skirt variations, and back zipper. Topstitching. Separate pattern pieces are included for cup sizes A, B, C, D. A, B and C: semi-fitted skirt, back hemline slit and stitched hem. B and F: unlined sleeves. D, E and F: narrow hem.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I like that it comes with the different cup sizes (even though at a DD the C fits me best because of the curve). I hated a lot about this pattern and I think that mainly has to do with the fitting issues I had (explained below). Once I fit it, it worked great and went together quickly.

Fabric Used:
I used a heavy poly chiffon (probably a georgette). Heavy enough that at two layers (both the lining and the shell) it is opaque. I also did a TON of hand embroidery. The entire hem and neckline.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
Jebus. I basically redrafted the entire bodice. Almost every single seam was changed – it was ridiculous. I’ve never had a Vogue pattern fit so poorly out of the envelope. I had to remove an inch below the waist on the yoke, bring in the princess seams above the bust (I have a bit of a concave chest), completely remove the slant on the side seams so they were actually vertical – that changed the armscythe significantly causing me to open that up on the front side of the dress. And the bodice needed to be lengthened an inch at the front and 1/2 inch in the back. Oh, and the sleeves are super tight so I had to cut two sizes up. *Breath* The back side seam was the only one I didn’t touch.

The only reason I got the dang thing to fit is because I paper fitted it to my Bootstrap dress form – it would have taken me two-three mock-ups otherwise.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Now that I’ve fitted it and have the tissue pattern (when I redraft I cut new tissues out of medical paper) I may just feel compelled to since I spent so much time on it.

Not for the faint of heart. This will likely require extensive fitting making it a tricky little beast. As such, I recommend only for those who are experienced with full bust adjustments and are extremely familiar with their general fit issues.

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