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Pattern Review: Simplicity 9104
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?It definitely did. Though I did make some rather major cosmetic changes. The construction minus those cosmetic changes was rather close to the pattern. I did completely change out the sleeves and added an underlining as well. Were the instructions easy to follow?Quite easy – this is actually a pretty simple dress! What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?I like how easy it is to fit the dress. I usually have to make a FBA, and it was simple to do this with just adding in an inch or so to…
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Fraying Seams? Here are 7 Ways to Sew a Seam that Never Frays!
Fraying seams are the worst. They’re scratchy and uncomfortable, they can leave threads hanging out from under you clothes, but worst of all, they can be unstable, cutting the life of your garment to nothing in a flash. Here a few different ways to finish a seam that will increase the longevity of your garment and put an end to unseemly seams! Basic Straight Stitch Seam The simplest way to finish a seam is to sew a parallel stitch to the seam to keep the raw edge from fraying. To do this, sew your seam with the seam allowance instructed by your pattern. Then sew the selvage of your seam…
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Sharpen Your Skills: Guide to Sewing Scissors
Let’s talk about all the scissors you might want or actually need for sewing (and a few bonus types for you costumers out there)! There are quite a few, so I’ve broken them down here with their uses and place in the cutting world: Types of Shears and Scissors Dressmaking Shears Dressmaking Shears come in two distinct varieties: Knife-edge and Serrated-edge. Both styles coming in sharp tip and blunt tip. There are also spring loaded versions to take some of the work off your hands. These are the mainstay of your scissor collection. They are meant to cut through fabrics as light as chiffon and gauze, all the way to…
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Fabric Selection 101
Beyond a doubt, fabric selection is the most crucial part of sewing – it literally is the costume. When I was a starting seamstress, my fabric choices were ALL over the place, especially for skirts, I used lining fabric, charmeuse, silky solids, and a myriad of completely inappropriate fabrics for the styles I was making. Best part? They fell apart. Not just because I didn’t finish my seams, but because the fabric was quite literally, wrong. You can learn from my mistakes! Save yourself some coin to spend on the appropriate fabrics for a project. I’m going to talk all about wovens today and save knits for another. If you…
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Sewing Machine Needles: Simple Guide for Success
Using the right or wrong needle for the job can make or break your project that you’ve worked on for hours, days, or months. Figuring out which needle is right for your fabric selection is tricky, but below I’ve created two handy phone-friendly infographics for you to reference the next time you need to buy needles! And a bit extra, the anatomy of the machine needle and what all these different types of needles look like up close. For reference, a self-threading needle is a universal needle with a small slit to make it easier to thread, these are recommended only for stable wovens, mainly quilting cottons and their ilk.
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Petticoat Math!
Beware: Algebra Ahead! Petticoats are not hard. I repeat, they are not hard. All of it is simple math and I’m here to help you figure out your fluff, length, and fabric requirements for a basic tiered petticoat like the one I’ve made for Anna! First things first: Fabric. You’ll need a stiff organza as your base fabric, my suggestion is to use this from Fabric Wholesale Direct. It’s easy to sew, easy to cut (fun fact, you don’t have to cut organza, you just tear it on the grain so it’s always perfectly even!), and it’s pretty. The other fabric you’ll need is tulle for the bottom tier. You…
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Making Fire
My 18th Century (specifically 1770’s) Charmander, aptly named “Le Feu du Charmander,” required a non-historical trim to create a flame effect. During the time period, fabric trims were, for the most part, various types of gathered strips of fabric or bows sewn onto the dress in artful, mirrored ways. No way would this work for the ombre look I was wanting to achieve – let alone match the texture I desired. The solution: nearly 200 individual ‘flames.’ I simultaneously regret and love this decision. I’m often quite conflicted when it comes to costuming and time-consuming techniques, this was no exception. Materials: Five 1-yard cuts of flame colored fabric 2 packs…
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The Wedding Dress
One fated day before we were even engaged, I decided to sew my wedding dress. While I have cursed and cried and screamed and bled, I could not have asked for or found a more perfect dress for me. Enjoy the show: What on earth was I going to make? What fabric did I want to use? How long did I want it to be? So many questions that literally needed an answer before I started even thinking about sewing my wedding dress. What I wanted: Tea-length, demure, full skirt, vintage feel, sleeves, a higher neckline or illusion neck, not white, and a hint of sparkles, but mostly lace. Good…
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Linen Petal Dress Creation
I have a few cuts of fabric that are solely dedicated for when I need a quick filler project to get my sewing fix. Yes, I am addicted, no, no help is needed. These two linen fabrics I’ve had for a while now, and finally decided to put this look together. The petal style skirt was inspired by a look of Michelle Obama’s a few years ago – I love the idea of scallops without the actual hem being curved. The visual interest of this is something that I don’t see in most clothing stores except very expensive ones – because the seams cannot be set by machine, they must…
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Sansa Stark Mockingbird Cosplay
Let me first say that I am a huge fan of Game of Thrones. Seriously. Big fan. I’m absolutely in love with the costuming on the show – it’s beautiful, intricate, unexpected, detailed, and wholly perfect. Which is why I’m making Sansa Stark’s black dress (Mockingbird Dress) from the show. It’s simple but stunning: So naturally, I scoured the main pattern companies for a similar pattern. And what did I find? Simplicity 1137: the “replica” of the costume! With a few MAJOR differences: Feathered bodice: actually not feathered – they used chainette trim Bodice is a bolero – not part of the dress. Opening is in the back, not the…
