Pattern Review: Simplicity 9104

Pattern Description:
Misses’ Vintage Dresses With Sleeve & Neckline Variation (1960’s)

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
It definitely did. Though I did make some rather major cosmetic changes. The construction minus those cosmetic changes was rather close to the pattern. I did completely change out the sleeves and added an underlining as well.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Quite easy – this is actually a pretty simple dress!

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I like how easy it is to fit the dress. I usually have to make a FBA, and it was simple to do this with just adding in an inch or so to the bust in length. Don’t really worry about cup sizes with this one, I’m a 34F and did just fine cutting an 18 top. It’s a great 1960s Vintage Repro that should be a staple of your wardrobe if you’re into the era.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I added an inch and a half to the bust length because I’m tall, but did not change the hem length of the dress for once. This makes it sit directly at my mid-knee (it’s a two inch hem), so at 5’9″, hopefully that gives you some idea of the finished length.

For the blue and pink dress, I gave her pockets. Big enough that they fit my phone! I hand sewed down the facings to keep them in place. This is a HUGE pet peeve of mine that patterns don’t tell you to do this. And then the hem. I went a little overboard. I made 21 3″ circles. These were handsewn together and between the spliced hem. Because of splicing the hem and fully doubling it over, the dress is roughly 2″ shorter than the pattern’s called for length.

Close up of the petal collar with the fussy cut embroidered swiss dot fabric
Close up of the hem circles

For the cream and red dress, I drafted a not-too-voluminous bishop sleeve with a functional button cuff so I could use sheer fabric instead of the close cut sleeve that the pattern comes with. I did keep the armscythe facings to hide the shoulder seam. You can see this pictured. I hand sewed down the facings to keep them in place, sewing just through the underlining (which again, the pattern doesn’t call for) so you can’t see the stitches on the shell of the dress.

Then the hem. I went a little overboard. I cut scalloped pieces exactly the width of the distance between seam lines. Then I hand basted those down with a whip stitch, barely catching the fabric so you can’t see the stitches. I also added 5 bows, one to each point of the scalloping. I gave the dress a giant patch pocket as well, big enough to fit my phone!

A shot of the continuous lap and the functional button cuff.
Inside facings all sewn down.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Heck yeah. If I was just doing the base dress, I could probably get this done in one weekend, give or take. This just took longer because I’m super extra.

This is a GREAT pattern for the 1960’s. It’s simple and accessible for all levels of sewists. Do recommend if you are looking to put your toe into vintage waters but aren’t yet ready for the more complicated 40’s and 50’s fashions.

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