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Altering an Unflattering Dress
When I originally bought this dress from Ann Taylor, I didn’t inspect the fit as well as I should have. Totally my fault, I fell in love with the stripes and the shirtdress style combined, so I was blinded to the issues that were quite apparent that made the dress rather unflattering. While not too terrible, there were some serious issues. Circled in blue is the waist seam actually level. To do this, I had to pin up the back on the dress form otherwise it would sag in the back (highly improper for my body type unless it there is an empire in the front). This lead to a…
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Pattern Review: Simplicity 9104
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?It definitely did. Though I did make some rather major cosmetic changes. The construction minus those cosmetic changes was rather close to the pattern. I did completely change out the sleeves and added an underlining as well. Were the instructions easy to follow?Quite easy – this is actually a pretty simple dress! What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?I like how easy it is to fit the dress. I usually have to make a FBA, and it was simple to do this with just adding in an inch or so to…
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Elevating Eilonwy
Let’s talk about fabric choices, details, and why we pick the fabrics we do. I touched upon this briefly when I talked about making Arwen, but that was a project where I was working to achieve a close recreation of a particular look, while sourcing materials that didn’t break the bank. This time around, let’s look at an original redesign of a character who has a rather basic costume: Eilonwy from the 1980’s Disney cult classic, The Black Cauldron. All the materials were gotten from two places: Fabric.com and Amazon. That’s it, no crazy sourcing from overseas! First we look at the color blocking of the costume: blue bodice with…
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Pattern Review: Truly Victorian 428 (1880 Jacket Bodice)
Pattern Description:This style is particularly suited to 1878 – 1882, and is perfect for daytime events. This jacket has a roll down collar with lapels, and is cut away at the center front below the waist. The bodice hem can be made in two styles, either with two points and shaped over the hips, or long on both sides and back. The side back seams open up into pleats below the hip for added fullness. The fitted sleeve is in 2 pieces, and can be made either full length with a cuff, or 3/4 length. The bodice is drafted based on a tailoring method actually used in the 1870’s. Each…
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Pattern Review: Butterick 4790
Pattern Description:Misses Walk-Away Wrap Dress: Three pattern pieces, darted in front and back, with back waist and shoulder seams. Back wraps around to the front for a sheath-and-overskirt look. A: Contrast back and skirt. Bias tape finished edges.Circa 1952 Pattern Sizing:8-14 & 16-22. I made a 16 with a bust of 18. Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?For the most part. The skirt on the pattern envelope is much more stiff, but that’s all because of the fabrics I used. Were the instructions easy to follow?They were so easy that I read through just the pictures once and then…
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RedThreaded’s 1860’s Gored Corset Review
Pattern Description:1860’s Gored Corset sewing pattern, individually sized. These patterns are based very closely on historical extant corsets and patents, but the draft is our own, adapted to fit a woman of average modern proportions. Designed for steel boning and front busk closure. An instruction booklet is included with photographic how-to instructions in a mix of historical and theatrical construction techniques. We also include a supply resources sheet with US and UK based corsetry supplier recommendations and general research sources. This pattern is recommended for those with moderate-advanced historical sewing skills. Corsets are not beginner projects. Pattern Sizing:Individually Sized. I sewed a large with alterations described below. My measurements are:…
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Simplicity 8161 18th Century Costumes Review
Pattern Description:Misses’ 18th century highland costumes includes outfits in two styles: the first is a gown with stomacher and petticoat, and the second is a bodice with petticoat and stomacher. Pattern Sizing:6-14; 14-22 I cut a 16 with some 18 for shoulder/arm. Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?YUP! Were the instructions easy to follow?Except for a weird thing with the sleeve that I believe is physically impossible, yup. What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?The pattern is great as is, though you have to fit it over the proper 18th century stays. If you don’t do…
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Science of Sewing: Creating Custom Striped Fabric
I fell in love with this fashion plate and knew I had to make it into Captain America. But the problem was the striped skirt, I didn’t want the stripes falling into the seamlines and creating chevrons. Instead I decided to make my own stripes and sew them on to recreate the look. This was my process for getting crisp, clean, and even stripes all around the skirt. Step One: Tear taffeta into 2″ strips. Yes, tear. Silk taffeta tears evenly on grain, creating perfect strips of fabric that you didn’t have to cut meticulously. It takes near zero time to do in comparison to cutting. Step Two: Grab handy…
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Truly Victorian’s TV170 Petticoat Review
NOTE: There is one petticoat in the picture with the pink ribbon. The 2nd picture has the second petticoat with the red ribbon layered over the petticoat with the pink ribbon. Just so you can see how it fluffs with the layering. Pattern Description:This pattern contains instructions for four different petticoats, suitable for the years 1870-1897. Historically accurate, these petticoats are perfect to help hold the silhouettes required for each individual era. The front is fitted with darts at the waist to help eliminate bulk. The closure is in the center back with a drawstring, for all views. The middle flounce has optional tucks to help stiffen the petticoat. I…
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Fraying Seams? Here are 7 Ways to Sew a Seam that Never Frays!
Fraying seams are the worst. They’re scratchy and uncomfortable, they can leave threads hanging out from under you clothes, but worst of all, they can be unstable, cutting the life of your garment to nothing in a flash. Here a few different ways to finish a seam that will increase the longevity of your garment and put an end to unseemly seams! Basic Straight Stitch Seam The simplest way to finish a seam is to sew a parallel stitch to the seam to keep the raw edge from fraying. To do this, sew your seam with the seam allowance instructed by your pattern. Then sew the selvage of your seam…
