Pattern Review: Truly Victorian 428 (1880 Jacket Bodice)

Pattern Description:
This style is particularly suited to 1878 – 1882, and is perfect for daytime events. This jacket has a roll down collar with lapels, and is cut away at the center front below the waist. The bodice hem can be made in two styles, either with two points and shaped over the hips, or long on both sides and back. The side back seams open up into pleats below the hip for added fullness. The fitted sleeve is in 2 pieces, and can be made either full length with a cuff, or 3/4 length.

The bodice is drafted based on a tailoring method actually used in the 1870’s. Each size is hand drawn, not scaled, with all of the bodice seams true to the era. This bodice is designed to fit snugly over a corset, without a bustle.

Pattern Sizing:
Waist 22″ – 48″

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes and no. With all the alterations I made, it looked significantly different, but the bones of the jacket looked identical.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes, for the most part. I do wish there were just a few more drawings to make things clearer. And there was a bit of confusion with the sleeve assembly as written.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I love the cut, it suits my body shape quite well and went together fairly quickly once all the fitting issues and alterations to style were taken care of.

I did NOT like the fact that I cut my mockup to the exact size it told me to and couldn’t get the front to close. I had to add 2″ to the front on each side to create the overlap to make them meet. This is a BIG problem with the pattern.

Fabric Used:
Silk taffeta and silk velvet outer shell, 10oz denim underlining, and poly/cotton broadcloth lining.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
Oh boi. Here we go. I’m going to break this down into two sections: fit and style.

The front did not close on my mockup so I had to add 2″ to each side to create the overlap. I lengthened the sleeves by 2″, one above and one below the elbow. I adjusted for sway back (about 1″ pinched out in the back). I widened the neck opening so it didn’t ride up the nape of my neck. I did not use boning like the pattern called for because the jacket is so stiff with the denim.

Extended the collar both in the front to create the points and widened it for a deeper fold. Added the tail to the back of the jacket. Shortened and shaped the front hem to create the exaggerated arch. Added the front overlay with button closure.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I do recommend this pattern for those who will make a mockup. There are numerous fit issues that you will likely need to take care of and that’s not something you want to find out about with your expensive fabrics.

Overall a good pattern. 1 star off due to the issue of using the correct measurements and the front straight up not fitting while the rest of the jacket did. I made this as a Victorian Captain America that I based off a fancy dress fashion plate from 1887, it came out looking almost identical and I am quite happy with the results.

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