The Gatsby Dress: McCall’s 6318 Review
Pattern Description:
Women’s lined dresses: Close fitting, lined dresses have side seam pockets.
Pattern Sizing:
Standard big 4, only goes up to a 20 instead of a 22 though.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
The pattern is quite accurate to the drawing and envelope picture. The pleats and “wings” on the bodice are exactly as they look.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
The instructions are tricky. You’re working with inset corners, so it’s always a bit confusing. This pattern is not for beginners, it’s definitely for someone who has made a few dresses before that have more than just princess seams or a darted bust panel.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I love the look. It’s so unique and I haven’t seen something from the Big 4 like this since it came out and was discontinued. What I don’t like about the pattern is a general issue I have with all pencil/sheath dress patterns from the Big 4: the hips are SO SMALL. I know I’m a hippy gal, but to be the same measurement as the bust is just disheartening.
Fabric Used:
I used a Poly Dupioni for the gold, black cotton broadcloth for the lining, and blue silk taffeta for the appliques.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I made a number of alterations for style and fit. First, I added two inches to the hips of the dress, adding a 3rd pleat at the waist to accommodate my hippi-ness without having an exaggerated curve at the hipline. Then I added that front strip of fabric to match what I had to do in the back. (I had to use opposite grain, so I needed the front and back to be cohesive.) The back received two panels that I pleated from the back dart to the center back. Each panel is 6″ wide, giving me ample hip room without any pulling. Again, due to the lack of fabric I had leftover, I had to cut these on opposite grain.
I made no alterations to the bodice, though I do caution that doing so would be tricky given the construction, particularly the different lining from fashion pieces for the “wings.”
I did add all the appliques to the hem with Heat’n”bond. I then hand-beaded them with bugle and large seed beads.
Conclusion:
This is my second time sewing it, though it’s my first time making the full dress. I made the dress as a top, which I adore, so I thought I’d do the full thing with the overage of fabric I had from another project.
It has such and Art Deco vibe (or at least it does in my mind) that I had to lean into it, hence the fans and geometrics at the hem. It’s perfect for date night in a fancy fabric, or business in a conservative fabric, or summer wedding in a floral print. I’d keep your prints simple, this one has such gorgeous architecture that deserves to be showcased.
