Let me first say that I am a huge fan of Game of Thrones. Seriously. Big fan.
I’m absolutely in love with the costuming on the show – it’s beautiful, intricate, unexpected, detailed, and wholly perfect. Which is why I’m making Sansa Stark’s black dress (Mockingbird Dress) from the show. It’s simple but stunning:
Credit: Could not find. If you know, please let me know so I may give credit where due.
Detail of the detachable collar piece. Credit: Could not find. If you know, please let me know so I may give credit where due.
So naturally, I scoured the main pattern companies for a similar pattern. And what did I find? Simplicity 1137: the “replica” of the costume! With a few MAJOR differences:
- Feathered bodice: actually not feathered – they used chainette trim
- Bodice is a bolero – not part of the dress.
- Opening is in the back, not the front.
Pattern: Simplicity 1137
I went to work on the pattern, only to find that (like all Simplicity patterns that have come before this one) the bodice is ridiculously sized. The bust point for this – had I cut it without altering – would have been above my boob. Really guys? After sitting at the table for a full 2 hours and a second draft of the front bodice piece actually working, I ended up having to add 2.5 inches to the length and to redraft the neckline. The arm scythe and all the actual measurements are perfect on the pattern otherwise. Just not the length. Argh. Then I did the same to the back, which was considerably easier. FYI, the dress will be all one piece. I’ll be making the bolero the top part of the dress and have the whole dress open in the front instead of the back.
Front bodice alteration: Original pattern piece over the new corrected pattern piece.
Back bodice alteration: Original pattern piece over the new corrected pattern piece.
On to the Sewing!
The materials for the dress:
- Black Linen/Rayon blend (hey, I wanna be comfy!) – 8 yards
- Strung Black Rooster Feathers: 5 yards
- Strung Black Goose Feathers: 1 yard
- A ton of assorted fusible interfacing – so many layers!
What you don’t see before we get to the cool stuff: Cut bodice pieces, used self lining. Lining was interfaced with featherweight to prevent over-stretching. Fashion bodice pieces were interfaced first with featherweight, then again with woven interfacing – they ain’t going anywhere! All pieces were then re-cut (because when you interface, things get wonky). Lining pieces were all sewn together. Darts were all sewn before applying trim.
Okay, now the fun stuff!
How to on the Feather Trim:
- Remove feathers from bias tape on which they were strung
- Cut 2″ strips of black linen blend
- Pull individual treads off the strips to create a frayed edge
- Machine sew feathers onto strips – going over each feather 2-3 times
- Cut quills off the feathers above the stitch line
Finished feather trim close detail
Layering the bodice:
- Mark each placement line
- Sew strips of feather trim on bodice starting from the bottom and working your way upward
Layering the feather trim onto the bodice
Look at all that detail when its done:
Close-up of finished side of bodice
Now to get to work finishing off the sleeves (which have been lined with basic black lining fabric from JoAnn’s that I had left over from a previous project). This picture shows the completed bodice with one sleeve pinned on to give a better idea of the finished bodice.
Full bodice with one sleeve ready to go.
I’ll post an update soon with the finished dress. This certainly is one of my favorites for dreary day photoshoots!